The Modern Napkin: Small Square, Big Story

Every tablescape has a main character — candles, flowers, maybe that perfect coupe glass. But the real unsung hero? The napkin. A tiny square of fabric (or paper, if you must) that manages to hold history, etiquette, and a surprising amount of personality.

So let’s unfold (literally) the story of how napkins evolved from bread scraps to design flexes — and how you can use them to turn your table from dinner into a moment.

Bread, Banquets, and Baroque Drama

Napkins have always been about more than function. Ancient Greeks used apomagdalia — hunks of soft bread that doubled as edible hand towels. Romans carried a mappa from home to protect clothing and wrap leftovers (a proto-doggy bag, and honestly, we respect the hustle).

📸: Illustration appearing in the chapter, “Trattato delle piegature”, Li tre trattati, Matthia Giegher, 1629.

Fast-forward to the Middle Ages, when one long communal cloth ran across banquet tables so everyone could wipe their hands on the same fabric (hygiene was a… work in progress). By the Renaissance, napkins became personal status symbols: enormous, starched, and folded into wild shapes. Castles, swans, even turrets — elaborate folds were a form of table theater, codified in books like Matthia Gieger’s 1639 manual, which outlined nine whole “families” of folds.

This wasn’t about wiping soup off your chin. It was flexing culture and craft right on the dinner table.

Napkins as Art (and Etiquette)

By the Victorian era, napkins slimmed down and became all about refinement. Etiquette guides declared that napkins belonged in laps, never tucked into collars (unless you were five or a French king who didn’t care). Crisp, white linen meant cleanliness, propriety, and wealth.

 

Paper Napkins Okeh; Emily Says So”, Independent, Long Beach, California, December 2 1948

 

Then came the 20th century plot twist: paper napkins. Invented in China centuries earlier, they caught on in the West as hygienic, convenient, and very modern. Dinner parties debated the switch the same way we debate oat milk vs. dairy today. Practicality or tradition?

Now, the etiquette still lingers — unfold once, place neatly, dab don’t wipe — but napkins are more than manners. They’re design, identity, and vibe.

The Tablescape Era

Scroll Instagram for five minutes and you’ll see it: napkins have become central to the art of tablescaping. They’re no longer an afterthought. They’re palette, texture, and architecture rolled into one.

• A linen in muted earth tones says “minimalist chic.”

• A patterned cotton napkin knotted casually at the plate says “effortlessly bohemian.”

• A bright paper napkin with cheeky slogans says “we’re here for fun, not starch.”

At restaurants like The Prime Rib, old-school folds like the fleur-de-lis still signal timeless luxury. At home, mismatched vintage linens casually draped across plates can say just as much.

Enter Laila Gohar: Napkin as Conversation

No one understands the napkin’s moment quite like Laila Gohar. With her Sobremesa collection for HAY, she transformed napkins into miniature canvases — embroidered cherries, appliquéd apples, playful stitching on linen that feels equal parts heirloom and art.

📸: Laila Gohar x HAYS

Her approach isn’t about crisp uniformity, it’s about warmth, humor, and memory. A Sobremesa napkin folded loosely over a plate feels less like “formality” and more like an invitation to linger, talk, and stretch a meal into an evening.

📸: Laila Gohar

Through her brand Gohar World, she’s gone even further: corset-style trims, lace edges, satin bows — napkins that flirt with fantasy while still doing their job. It’s proof that this humble square can carry wit, drama, and charm all at once.

From Bread to Bed

Which brings us full circle: napkins started with bread, and Gohar brought them back there with her now-iconic Bread Bed — a linen “duvet” designed to tuck loaves in like they’re going down for a stylish nap.

📸: Laila Gohar

At first glance, it’s whimsical. Bread, under covers. But it’s also a sly continuation of napkin history. Bread once was the napkin; now napkins cradle bread. It flips the script while honoring tradition, making the humble loaf a centerpiece rather than a side note.

The Bread Bed also shows what napkins and linens do best: turn function into ritual. You don’t need a linen duvet for your sourdough, just like you don’t need a rose-fold napkin. But once you see it, you can’t help but want it. Because it says: this meal matters, this bread matters, this moment matters.

The Lost Art of Folding

Yes, napkin folding can feel like your grandmother’s party trick, but it’s also a design detail with centuries of history. Contemporary folding artists like Joan Sallas treat it like origami with fabric — functional sculpture at the table.

A few classics worth trying:

• Opera House Fan: fanned out, elegant, easy drama.

• Bishop’s Mitre: angular, structured, a nod to tradition.

• Rosebud: playful, romantic, Instagram-ready.

• Goblet Fan: slides right into a glass for a vertical pop.

And if you’re feeling seasonal? Blogs like Debbee’s Buzz offer holiday folds — from bunny ears at Easter to turkeys at Thanksgiving. Tablescapes are stage sets; napkins are props.

Tips for Napkin Mastery (Barbet Style)

1. Play with Texture. Crisp linen = formal. Slouchy cotton = laid-back. Paper with graphic prints = playful.

2. Experiment with Placement. Not everything belongs under the fork. Try knotting napkins, tucking menus inside, or draping them off the table edge.

3. Color is Mood. Pastels say brunch. Jewel tones say dinner party. Stripes say, “we don’t take ourselves too seriously.”

4. Less Is More. Skip the swan if it feels too much. A single, clean fold or an artful knot can be just as powerful.

5. Make it Interactive. Hide sprigs of herbs, tuck in name cards, or thread napkins through unique rings — the garnish of your table.

The Modern Napkin Is Ritual

From edible bread scraps to elaborate swans, napkins have always been about more than wiping your mouth. They’re cultural shorthand — clean vs. messy, formal vs. casual, considered vs. careless.

And in the age of the curated table, they’ve never been more relevant. A napkin says: we thought about this meal, we thought about this moment, and yes, you’re worth the good linen.

So next time you pour Barbet and set the table, don’t forget the napkin. Fold it, knot it, drape it, twist it. Because napkins aren’t just accessories. They’re punctuation marks in the ritual of gathering.